The repo with the fix is here: https://github.com/dob71/nedit
It solved the problem with the input into the edit windows, but introduced (or maybe they are unrelated) the problem with the dialog boxes.

I haven’t spent much time on the dialog boxes input problem yet. So far my solution was to link nedit statically under Ubuntu 16.04 (see “static-ubuntu16″ build configuration) where it worked flawlessly and run that executables under 18.04. It appears to work, but it has been only a week or so, not enough time to confirm for sure that the dialog boxes problem is gone. The edit windows keyboard input problem though is certainly resolved now.

The build was pretty easy:
cd ~
git clone https://github.com/eteran/nedit-ng
sudo apt-get install qt5-default
sudo apt-get install libboost-all-dev
#bison --version (didn't need to install)
#cmake --version (didn't need to install)
sudo apt-get install qttools5-dev
cd nedit-ng/
mkdir build
cd build
cmake ..
make


The binaries are “nc-ng” and “nedit-ng”. They are a drop-in replacement for “nc” and “nedit”. I actually used a small script to use symlinks for switching between the original nedit and the ng one.

Since ng uses different configuration format you’ll need to import your original nedit config:
./nedit-import ~/.nedit/nedit.rc


Unfortunately there were some little misses that forced me to go back to using the old nedit (see the next post).
The particular thing that I couldn’t adapt to were the fonts and how nedit-ng runs the shell commands.
With ng it was impossible to display as many readable lines of code in the window as it was possible with the old nedit. As for the execution of the shell scripts, I’m using them often, for example, to select something in the code and pop up a window where grep output for that selection would show. The ng did not bring the focus to the new window, also no output showed up till the command finished executing. Also the cursor change indicating that a command is running happened in the window where it was kicked off rater than the window that was receiving the output.
Regardless, it was really exciting to see nedit reborn. I don’t know what’s the magic, but since I started using nedit many years ago no other editor was compelling enough to replace it for me. Hopefully the project is not abandoned and all the little gotchas will eventually be cleaned up.

The hardware:

It was made with old CyberPower 425VA plus Olinuxino A13 WiFi with relays module.
The power is fed to Olinuxino directly from the battery feeds. The battery is stored outside and connected to the red and blue terminals.
The outlets were rewired to be powered through the Olinuxino controlled relays.

The software:

Start with the pre-built image from here:
https://github.com/OLIMEX/OLINUXINO/blob/master/SOFTWARE/A13/A13-build/A13_olinuxino_Debian_kernel_3.4.90%2B_image_description.txt

The image file name is:
A13_debian_34_90_WIFI_RALINK_GCC_GPIO_X_I2C_100KHz_UVC_TS_FTDI_3G_video_accell_release_10.img
It’s big (almost 4GB), so torrenting it is the best option.

I’ll keep a copy on google drive till need to free up space:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1DzbFk9hplX51KZCa82LuA3gB7mFvIfCW

The more detailed image flashing instructions are here:
https://www.olimex.com/wiki/Prebuilt_SD_card_images_running_debian

Install hostapd and dnsmasq:
https://www.olimex.com/forum/index.php?topic=1635.0

Pull (using GIT) or download and extract files from the repo (URL below) into “/ups” folder on the board:
https://github.com/dob71/olinuxino-powerctl

Set up the init script:
ln -s /ups/init.d/powerctl /etc/init.d/powerctl
/usr/sbin/update-rc.d powerctl defaults

Add user “admin” and set /usb/control as its shell in /etc/passwd.

Edit /etc/inittab to respawn getty with admin login instead of root on ttyS0
T0:2345:respawn:/sbin/getty -L -a admin ttyS0 115200 linux

Example session (the control board is in client mode connected to home WiFi):

$ ssh admin@192.168.1.152
Warning: Permanently added '192.168.1.152' (ECDSA) to the list of known hosts.
admin@192.168.1.152's password:
Linux a13-OLinuXino 3.4.90+ #1 PREEMPT Thu Jun 19 09:51:45 EEST 2014 armv7l

The programs included with the Debian GNU/Linux system are free software;
the exact distribution terms for each program are described in the
individual files in /usr/share/doc/*/copyright.

Debian GNU/Linux comes with ABSOLUTELY NO WARRANTY, to the extent
permitted by applicable law.
Last login: Sat Nov 28 02:30:35 2020 from some.host.okob.net
Please press a key:
'w' - control WiFi, 'p' - control power, 'r'- admin password.
The system is in STA mode
Wireless device state:
wlan12    Link encap:Ethernet  HWaddr 48:02:2a:ea:11:1f
          inet addr:192.168.1.152  Bcast:192.168.1.255  Mask:255.255.255.0
          UP BROADCAST RUNNING MULTICAST  MTU:1500  Metric:1
          RX packets:854 errors:0 dropped:4329 overruns:0 frame:0
          TX packets:251 errors:0 dropped:0 overruns:0 carrier:0
          collisions:0 txqueuelen:1000
          RX bytes:173505 (169.4 KiB)  TX bytes:39336 (38.4 KiB)
'c' - client mode, 'a' - AP mode, 'e' - exit:
'w' - control WiFi, 'p' - control power, 'r'- admin password.
Current power state:
R1(surge outlet 1) : on
R2(surge outlet 2) : on
R3(surge outlet 3) : on
R4(battery outlets): on
1-4 toggle the state, 'u' - all on, 'd' - all off, 'e' - exit:
Current power state:
R1(surge outlet 1) : off
R2(surge outlet 2) : off
R3(surge outlet 3) : off
R4(battery outlets): off
1-4 toggle the state, 'u' - all on, 'd' - all off, 'e' - exit:
Current power state:
R1(surge outlet 1) : on
R2(surge outlet 2) : on
R3(surge outlet 3) : on
R4(battery outlets): on
1-4 toggle the state, 'u' - all on, 'd' - all off, 'e' - exit:
Current power state:
R1(surge outlet 1) : off
R2(surge outlet 2) : off
R3(surge outlet 3) : off
R4(battery outlets): off
1-4 toggle the state, 'u' - all on, 'd' - all off, 'e' - exit:
Current power state:
R1(surge outlet 1) : on
R2(surge outlet 2) : off
R3(surge outlet 3) : off
R4(battery outlets): off
1-4 toggle the state, 'u' - all on, 'd' - all off, 'e' - exit:
Current power state:
R1(surge outlet 1) : on
R2(surge outlet 2) : on
R3(surge outlet 3) : off
R4(battery outlets): off
1-4 toggle the state, 'u' - all on, 'd' - all off, 'e' - exit:
Current power state:
R1(surge outlet 1) : on
R2(surge outlet 2) : on
R3(surge outlet 3) : on
R4(battery outlets): off
1-4 toggle the state, 'u' - all on, 'd' - all off, 'e' - exit:
Current power state:
R1(surge outlet 1) : on
R2(surge outlet 2) : on
R3(surge outlet 3) : on
R4(battery outlets): on
1-4 toggle the state, 'u' - all on, 'd' - all off, 'e' - exit:
'w' - control WiFi, 'p' - control power, 'r'- admin password.
Connection to 192.168.1.152 closed.

The tip of the day: BE VERY CAREFUL PRYING OUT LI-ION BATTERIES, ESPECIALLY AVOID THE CORNERS.

Surprisingly, the phone still works, just the speaker board needs replacement…
And as I recently noticed there is now a yellow tint in a few places where LCD was damaged by the heat.

The bed was at 60C and covered by PVA. The attempts to print on clean glass at 75C and 90C were not successful.

The filament behavior appears to be similar to PLA. There’s leaking and fan is likely to be needed for printing small details. In the print pictured below the fan was always on at 30% (mostly because I was hoping it will help to keep the upper part of the hotend from overheating).

After making a few more prints the conclusion is that 50mm/s is too fast for this filament and my Makergear hotends. There was obvious insufficient extrusion of the filament in the infill  printed at 50mm/s regardless of fan being turned on or off and regardless of the printing temperature being increased or decreased 5C. Printing everything at the constant speed of 30mm/s immediately improved the results.

The print on the left picture is done at 50mm/s infill, the right at 30mm/s.

I used the same slicer settings as for their (http://taulman3d.com) Nvent filament (didn’t play with any settings to make it more transparent). The extruder was at 245C although I think it could be at a bit lower (240-243 C) temperature to help with stringing. The bed was at 75. For small objects (20 x 20 x 10 mm calibration piece) it worked fine with Elmer’s glue, but the large pieces didn’t stick well enough till printed on the clear glass. I had no troubles removing those large pieces after cooling down (they pretty much got loose on their own).

P.S. I forgot to note what was the fan setting and cannot remember it now (I think I kept it off).

If you ever do that (and my advice don’t) just get the contact points and the big chunks that bridge the plates. You can see the latter on the picture inside the battery case.

Getting the lead mesh from the plates is not worth the efforts. There is more junk there than lead.

Baking soda and/or pool’s PH+ chemicals can be used to neutralize it. Borax can be used too. It converts it into boric acid and anhydrous sodium sulfate (neither of which is a nasty stuff, apparently). The process is simple. First, the water is added to dilute the acid (it’s not pure, so 50/50 mix is good enough). Then the neutralizing agent is added slowly (if doing it start with one spoon to see how it reacts). The baking soda and HTH PH+ bubble when added (borax doesn’t). As soon as it stops bubbling when the baking soda or HTH PH+ is added it should be good to dispose of.

It took quite a bit of the stuff to neutralize all the acid in the bucket and its remains in the battery case. I have scavenged and dumped in a pound or two all the above chemicals till it finally stopped bubbling.

The final result: 10lb

And after smelting there were only about 6lb left.

The conclusion: a lot of time, efforts and baking soda wasted (borax and PH+ did not count, didn’t need them anyway).